Costa Rica: Rainforest, Volcanoes and Two Oceans

Wedged between Nicaragua and Panama, Costa Rica has a Pacific shoreline to the west and a Caribbean one to the east, near enough that a day's drive can take you from one sea to the other. For such a compact country it packs in a huge variety of nature: lowland rainforest, misty cloud forest, mangrove swamps, coral reefs and volcanoes that still smoke. About a quarter of the territory is protected as parks and reserves. Visitors arrive for the animals and the beaches, and most head home saying the national catchphrase, pura vida, which means “the pure life”. The trip is easy to build around a few bases, since distances are short but mountain roads are slow, so allow extra time between stops.

Where to Sleep

• Nayara Springs, Arenal: Villas for adults only, tucked beneath the Arenal Volcano, each with its own plunge pool filled by natural hot spring water. Rainforest begins at your doorstep, sloths drift through the branches over the paths, and the cone of the volcano dominates the outlook from most terraces.
• Andaz Costa Rica Resort, Peninsula Papagayo: A low, spread-out resort on the Papagayo Peninsula on the Pacific side, set into a slope so that rooms face the sea. It offers multiple pools, a pair of peaceful beaches an easy walk away, and tropical dry forest on every side.
• Tabacón Thermal Resort and Spa in La Fortuna: A warm river winds through landscaped grounds near the foot of Arenal, filling a series of pools kept at different temperatures. A spa stands next to them, and the pools open late into the night, which is the nicest time to soak.

What to See and Do

• Manuel Antonio National Park: Among the smallest national parks in the country yet one of the most visited, since the jungle reaches right down to pale sand. Capuchin monkeys, sloths and iguanas are easy to find, occasionally even on the beach. Arrive when the gates open, and keep your bag zipped and close when monkeys are around.
• Zip-lining over Monteverde: Cables stretched between tall tree platforms send you gliding above the Monteverde cloud forest instead of walking beneath it. A few of the lines run over a kilometre, and on a clear day the ridge gives views of both coasts.
• Surf at Tamarindo Beach: This Pacific beach has warm water and a reliable, gentle break. First-timers can rent a board and find an instructor right on the sand within minutes. Further along the point the waves grow larger and less forgiving.

Kid-Friendly Places to Eat 

Eating with children is straightforward here. Small family-run sodas serve rice, beans and grilled meat at low prices, and most towns also have a pizza or taco place. These are favourites with returning families:

• Soda Viquez:
  Where: 700 metres west of the Banco Nacional in La Fortuna
  A no-frills soda in the shadow of Arenal serving casados, gallo pinto and grilled fish for little money. Plastic chairs, heaped plates and fast service.
• El Wagon:
  Where: On the main road through Tamarindo
  Found along Tamarindo's main road, with outdoor tables and a menu ranging from Costa Rican staples to wood-fired pizza. Casual enough for sandy feet.
• La Choza de Laurel:
  Where: Two hundred metres past the Heredian School, in La Fortuna
  A thatch-roofed restaurant where chickens roast on a spit by the door. Traditional Costa Rican cooking, big servings, and enough space to join two tables for a group.
• Jalapeno Central:
  Where: 75 metres west of the Banco Nacional in Jaco
  Mexican dishes in Jaco, including tacos, burritos and a lengthy breakfast list. Portions are large, and kids generally find something they will eat.
• La Pecora Nera:
  Where: Calle 1 in Tamarindo, Guanacaste province
  An Italian restaurant close to Tamarindo with pasta and pizza on the menu and a longer list of daily specials that the owner announces at your table. Calm seating in a leafy garden.
• Soda y Restaurante Oasis:
  Where: On the main road in Cahuita
  A short stroll from the beach in the centre of Cahuita, serving Caribbean rice and beans cooked in coconut milk next to the usual Costa Rican plates.
• Lizard King Resort Restaurant:
  Where: One kilometre east of the Banco de Costa Rica, in Dominical
  The restaurant of the Lizard King Resort, Dominical, surrounded by trees, with a menu that mixes Costa Rican dishes and familiar kids' food.

Good to Know

• Biodiversity Hotspot: The country takes up roughly a thirtieth of one percent of the Earth's surface yet is home to around 5% of known species. That gap is the main reason for the national parks, which now protect over a quarter of the land.
• Volcanic Landscapes: Over 200 volcanic formations are scattered across the country. Most visitors go to Arenal, Poás or Rincon de la Vieja, and the hot springs nearby are warmed by the same underground activity.
• Pura Vida Lifestyle: "Pura vida" literally means "pure life," and locals say it for hello, goodbye, thanks and no worries. It also serves as a shrug when something goes wrong, and sums up the national attitude well.